Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Thirty Years of Observations and Sightings From a Bar Stool In WC2

The Book of ATE


Thirty Years of Observations and Sightings from a bar stool in WC2

February ‘82 Café Pacifico opened in a banana warehouse just “off Long Acre, next door to Pineapple.”

In an article in Class magazine Dick Bradsell reflects on the passing of time.

Once again, “at the bar” in Pacifico.

I ordered the same as I would back then (1984) a big floury quesadilla with a cold beer a shot of Tequila and a shot of Sangrita. I sat at the bar beaming lovingly at my little collection until I made the mistake of looking up and confronting my reflection in a large mirror behind the bar, always a shock for a man of my age. It occurred to me that I had sat in that very space eating and drinking those very things years before. How different things were back then.”
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Very different indeed. When we first came to Covent Garden (1981) it was considered a risky area for a business venture. The Pineapple Dance Studios were enjoying a huge wave of success following the movie Flashdance, which helped us tremendously, as our catch phrase became (We’re) “Next door to Pineapple”!

At that time the council was not giving out restaurant licenses despite many old buildings crying out for refurbishment. Due to this attitude there were very few contemporary restaurants throughout the Covent Garden area. Eight established restaurants of that time were:
  1. Tuttons
  2. Brahms and Liszt
  3. Peppermint Park
  4. Joe Allens
  5. Grunts Pizza (Where Jack Dee was a Manager)
  6. Porters
  7. Maxwells
  8. Smiths (Graham Norton worked in the dining room)
So back in 1982 with a 7 year lease, our neighborhood included the Ballet School, Film Academy, Pacman (the brass instrument maker), St. Martins College, casting agents and a few pubs and sandwich bars. The flora and veg market had moved from the area, making way for artsy stalls in the old market place.

Having come from our first restaurant in Amsterdam and being Californians (with a few Brits thrown in), we were excited and thrilled for the opportunity facing us.

Our challenge was to convert 3000 sq. feet of banana warehouse. We collected items from everywhere to divert the “newness” of the conversion. The indoor and outside railings, light covers and round windowed swing doors were salvaged from the old Ealing Hospital one very cold morning in December ’81. The big mirror in the middle of the bar was from the closing of the Blitz Club down on Great Queen Street.

The tagging graffiti came by way of our artist friend, Dennis McGonagle in Whittier, California. We paid he and his East L.A. homies $100.00 and a case of beer to tag yards of canvas and send it over. We mounted 11 metres of canvas down the hallway and somehow it became an open invitation for our customers to add their own speak. Layer upon layer of graffiti graced that area until the refurb in 2003 when the whole wall was removed.

One of our favorite restaurant stories is of the night before opening at our first staff meeting. As I stood there talking about the values of our company I kept noticing everyone looking behind me and to my left. We had been sought out by David Litchfield of Ritz magazine to hold an interview with Hunter S. Thompson in Pacifico because we were the only place to have Mezcal, a requirement of Mr. Thompsons. While our introduction was going on so was their interview. Thirty pairs of eyeballs glued to the drinkin and party activities behind me. I’ve often wondered did anyone remember my speech that night?
A few days later, February 1st to be exact meant our first night launch, we were running late and the plumber still welding in the toilets accidently set off the sprinkler system one hour before the press and guests arrived. Luckily it didn’t work in the dining room as the buffet and decor would have been ruined. But gallons of water did pour out of the toilets. The new staff were frantically mopping up the deluge. Jim, Tom, Danny, Richard, Jeanne, Jay, and Bill drank a lot of tequila that night and as they say if you can remember it you weren’t there.


Along with some random brainstorms and adventurous design ploys the next three decades heralded our own kind of innovation. At Langley Street we...
  1. Introduced Fajitas to the UK in ’87, still our most popular dish.
  2. In ’82 we served a range of customized Nachos and taught Bob Payton, from Chicago Pizza how to make them.
  3. Introduced Mud Pie in ‘82, (the original recipe lifted from the Chart House Restaurant, Newport Beach, California).
  4. Developed “Modern Mexican”, a new style of cooking featuring an exotic marriage of ingredients, launched in ’85.
  5. Began Southwestern and Fiesta de Mariscos Food Festivals in ’86.
  6. Premium Tequilas were introduced with El Tesoro in ’91.
  7. Started the first UK restaurant website with support from Corona Beer in ’96.
  8. Tequila Week immigrated from Amsterdam, much tequila, much danger in ’83.
ON REFLECTION, there are many things in the Covent Garden restaurant world that have changed and improved since 1982. Cheers to:
  1. No Smoking
  2. Sipping” not “Slamming”.
  3. Customer focus
  4. Product availability
  5. Covent Garden development and expansion
  6. Serving our own Tequila Ocho.
  7. Modernization and improved Operations.
  8. We’re all older and wiser or not.
One of our colleagues once said, “you could easily base a soap opera on restaurant life.” Perhaps it’s the nature of the ambience, the excitement of the city, the late hours or drink, there is definitely a sense of romance and belonging that seems to engulf the staff, night after night, shift after shift. Some come and go quickly, hopefully taking a valued experience with them, while others stay committed to Pacifico at 5 Langley St.

The longest serving staff still with and without us are these record holders:

1. Sheila Lakeman (27 years) Server, Floor Manager, now General Manager.

2. Adriana Aguayo (28 years) Line Cook, now Floor Manager.

3. Eamonn Mullen (27 years) Head Chef, now Group Chef.

4. Dooj (22 years) now Managing Office and Art department.

5. Alastair Feltell (16 years) Bartender, Manager, General Manager, left in 2003.

6. Billy Craig (18 years) Linecook , Assistant Head Chef. Disappeared in 2001 (literally).

7. Fernando Roldan Pineda (13 years) Kitchen Porter, Chef, now Head Chef.

8. Carlos Londono (14 years) Server, Bar and Floor Manager,

now Assistant General Manager.

Here’s a nod to the staff that moved on to success outside 5 Langley Street by opening their own restaurants.
  1. Denny Blais - Belgo in London, 1992
  2. Jay Travis – Wagamama worldwide, 1992
  3. Diane Thomas - Mildreds Soho, London, 1988
  4. Gavin Marks - Ruby in the Dust, London, 1985
  5. John Spiteri - The French House Soho, London, 1994
  6. Danny Rodriguez -Las Margaritas in Vancouver 1991
  7. Jim Reedy - Pancho and Leftys, North London, 1984
  8. Richard Travis- Sloppy Joes, Colchester, UK 1984
There are many events and stories that have circulated over the past 30 years often surprising us, here are a few bits of “trivia” we’ve remembered.

At Café Pacifico:
  1. We have worked with 37 different nationalities at different times.
  2. Served over 2 million Margaritas.
  3. Become the largest sellers of Coleccion tequila for £100 a shot and the customers name inscribed behind the bar.
  4. Launched our own tequila, Ocho on 8/08/2008.
  5. Offered free Spanish lessons to staff given by a staff member.
  6. One former manager won the UK lottery.
  7. The beautiful, actress Natasha McElhone was a server.
  8. Launched a veg menu with Linda McCartney products for charity.
We have been visited by many celebrities throughout the last 30 years and have come across a somewhat surprising story why Madonna never dined in Pacifico. During her height as one of the worlds most famous celebrities “her people” came in and checked out our women’s w.c. Because the toilet doors weren’t flush with the floor, creating a chance of an illicit photo being taken underneath the door, we were passed by. There were many others who did visit however, eight of our favorites are remembered below...
  1. David Bowie
  2. Neil Young
  3. Janet Jackson
  4. George Michael
  5. Noel Gallagher
  6. Robert Plant (claimed Pacifico his favorite in the UK)
  7. Steffi Graff and Andre Agassi
  8. Emma Watson
If you were born the day Pacifico opened you would now be celebrating the big 3-0 and perhaps have kids, be on your second marriage, contemplating a mortgage and finished educating yourself . This collection of thoughts is about that time past.

With much gratitude to you our customers and the fabulous, eclectic staff members then and now, a huge galloping thanks for all the support and fun you brought to our door.


D. Feltell




Thursday, February 2, 2012

Classic Cocktail - La Batanga

This Classic featured in the January issue of Australian Bartender magazine. By Simon McGoram. Photography by Rob Palmer


Bartenders are always looking for the perfect quick Tequila serve, what many don’t realise is that they’ve been beaten to the post by an 88 year old bartender from the little town of Tequila in Jalisco, Mexico.

Don Javier Delgado Corona has presided over a tiny bar in Tequila, called La Capilla (the Chapel) for more than 70 years. Over time the man has become a living legend and his bar a place of worship for Tequila ‘true believers’.

“This is a true Mecca for those seeking the spirit of Tequila,” explains Tomas Estes, Bartender contributor, restaurateur and founder of Tequila Ocho. “…this is a no nonsense place - no frills. Don Javier stirs his drinks with a butcher’s knife, a fork or whatever is at hand.”

Don Javier’s creation, La Batanga, like his bar is a simple affair. Tequila, fresh pressed lime and cola served in a salt rimed glass. At La Capilla it’s made with a local ‘mixto’ brand, distilled only a couple of hundred metres from the bar, called El Tequileño. The El Tequileño company was founded in 1959 and Don Javier created his original Batanga recipe with El Tequileño Blanco in 1961.

As you’re unlikely to have a bottle of El Tequileño Blanco on hand I recommend that you go for a quality bottle of 100% agave blanco Tequila. Juice your lime straight into the salt rimmed glass, add a load of cubed ice a pour in a generous slug of your Tequila.

La Batanga


* 60ml Blanco Tequila
* Half a lime
* Bottled cola to top
* Flaky sea salt for rimming

*Rim a large highball with salt. Using a Mexican elbow; squeeze in the juice of half a lime. Add your Tequila, fill with ice, top with cola and stir with a large knife




www.4bars.com.au

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Cleo Rocos on her obsession with Tequila

By Stephen Unwind, Sunday Express

No Just A Cheap Shot

By Sarah Gain, Pub & Bar Magazine


Click on the images to zoom

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

April 1998

Taken from the CLASS archives, this is a column by Dick Bradsell from April 1998.

I hope I will not shock you by the revelation that I do not beIieve I have ever mastered the art of creating a Margarita. I am not even sure I could teach someone else to make a really fantastic example of this classic drink. My general advice to the trainee is to pour 50ml of tequila in a shaker and add 25mI each of time juice and triple sec, then shake. After they have done this I advise them to adjust the sweet and sour contents until they get a balance they are happy with.

It is not very likely, however, that I am going to come across a junior mixologlsl that does not know how to make this cocktail. If anyone ever applies for a job with me and claims to be able to make a cocktail or two I will invariably ask them "what is in a Margarita?" lt is a bit cruel really to suddenly put someone on the spot mid-interview with a question like this but it is an indication of the popularity and renown of this drink that I believe that anyone who claims to know cocktails will know the ingredients of a Margarita.

The answers are quite illuminating too. Tequila is, obviously, the correct choice for the base spirit but the other constituents can range from lime juice, lemon, sweet and sour mix or, God forbid, Margarita mix to triple sec, Cointreau, curacao or any other number of sweet orange liqueurs. I have even worked with a guy who made the most delicious Margaritas with grapefruit juice.

I think this is an indication of the point I am trying to make. The Margarita is a drink that is made differently by a lot of bartenders but is made well by nearly all of them. lt seems such a shame that, because we do need consistency in our bars, we are pressured into forcing a drinks maker into employing our method when theirs was perfectly acceptable (especially to them). l am always tempted to just let them get on with it because although I know that the drinks going out may very well be different at least they are going to be good. In these days of the 'Top SheIf', 'De luxe' or 'Golden Margarita' it is a very opportune time to ask ourselves what a Margarita really is. It has been a stalwart of most bar menus since the 60s (the 1960s that is). In those dreadful years when the sacred candle of mixology was dim and our turncoat customers all turned to designer beers and flavoured shots (nice profit margin!) the Margarita still remained as popular as ever. The one cocktail that has never been regarded as 'poncy' or sophisticated. Traditionally, it has always been a favourite of that rock n roll music biz crowd possibly because it has some white powder around its rim.

The sort of Margaritas l have liked and served are not the smooth blended ones or the aged golden ones but the robust strong tasting mothers that set you up for an evening of howling like a coyote and enjoying the company of someone else's girl/boyfriend before the dawn brings a horrid hangover and a whole lot of explaining.

I am not against the purveying of high quality aged tequilas in these cocktails just as I am not against horseradish in a Bloody Mary. I just think it is a different drink. A different drink altogether. I want raw silver tequila of an acceptable quality mixed with fresh lime or lemon juice and some decent triple sec. I want it shaken over ice and strained into a salt-rimmed glass. Then I want to taste how the three ingredients do not realty mix together. How they kick my tastebuds into submission and fire up my bad side. Then after a few of them I want to run screaming into the night, possibly having paid the bill first. Because I think that is what Margaritas are about. Fun!

A MARGARITA
50ml Silver Tequila
20ml Lime juice
20ml Triple sec
Shake and strain into salt-rimmed glass




www.diffordsguide.com

Monday, October 31, 2011

Ocho Tequila Tasting with Tomas Estes and Julio Bermejo

By Bar Life UK

We don’t need much of an excuse to go and drink Ocho Tequila…

…but when the tasting is at Dre Masso’s new bar L.T.D. @ The Social, with Tomas & Julio in attendance, well wild Agave couldn’t keep us away. Due to the nature of Ocho, a tasting is always a very interesting and enlightening affair, especially when Tequila royalty in the form of Tomas Estes and Julio Bermejo are in attendance. For those who have not been lucky enough to attend one of these tastings let me quickly explain why Ocho is unique.

First things first, Ocho tequila is a joint partnership between Tomas and Julio’s wife’s family, the legendary Camarenas. That in itself is enough to tell you that it’s a tequila worth trying but that isn’t even half the story. The fact that Ocho is one of the few Tequilas still made using old fashioned, traditional techniques still only takes you to just over half the story.

You see Ocho is the only tequila which is both vintage and field dated. This means that each bottle not only has the year in which it was produced but also the precise field from which the agave comes – each batch is single estate; single field.

We have all heard the wine industry bang on about ‘terroir’ and how it has a huge effect on the taste of the wine, well Tomas has used this theory in his tequila and boy can you see where he was coming from when you try the different vintages side by side.

It is this vintage and field listing angle which makes an Ocho tasting so interesting and so unique. In our session we tried the following:

* 2007 Blanco called La Rivera which is from a Valley estate
* 2008 Blanco called Las Pomez from a Highland estate
* 2010 Blanco called Los Mangos from a Valley estate
* And the latest vintage to hit our shores
* 2011 Blanco called El Puertecito from a Highland estate

The difference between the different vintages is incredible and anyone who has ever uttered the words ‘all tequila taste the same’ needs to be slapped and then given a couple of Ocho vintages to try (in that order).

Whilst we tried the tequilas (expertly served by Stuart and Herb from Cask Liquid Marketing in their best trolley dolly modes) Tomas and Julio told us more about tequila in general and what gives Ocho its taste in particular.
Agave Plants

Everyone loves Tommy

Firstly we looked at the Agave plants themselves. Did you know that one agave plant gives, on average, 35 kilos of usable flesh and it takes 8 kilos to make 1 litre of 50% tequila? The ripeness of an Agave plant when it is harvested makes a big difference to the taste of the finished product. Much like a banana the ripeness of the Agave can be determined by its appearance.

Ocho pick their Agave plants when they are at what is known as a ‘supreme state’, which in the world of bananas we would probably call overripe. The reason for this is that you get the sweetness as usual but the over ripeness also gives it a slightly bitter edge resulting in a greater and more complex Agave taste.

The harvesting of the Agave is also a very important part in the Ocho process. Due to the fact that it is not a mass produced tequila the jimadors are able to pick the exact plants to harvest rather than stripping out the whole field. This helps to ensure that the plants are at exactly the right state when harvested.

Tomas and Julio also discussed the importance that the location of the estate, and the field used, has on the final product. Someone telling you about this is interesting enough however when you can taste the differences in the glasses in front of you it takes on a whole new meaning. I, for one, discovered that I definitely prefer the valley style of tequila over the highland style during our session.
Guest DJ’s

Once the tasting session was over the night was still young and there was an extra treat in store for us all. As I mentioned the session was taking place at L.T.D. @ The Social and what a great venue it is. We will be telling you more about this place in the coming weeks but in the meantime if you haven’t been then get your arses down there pronto.

Whilst Dre and his team pumped out some epic Tommy’s Margaritas first Tomas then Julio took to the decks (ably assisted by Herb) for their own Desert Island Discs. Not only were we treated to some fantastic tunes but we were given a printout showing the songs picked and a little explanation explaining what each song meant to them.

Below is their playlists along with a couple of the explanations but before that a special mention must be made to the Steve Reid Foundation who The Social were raising money for through a raffle whilst we enjoyed ourselves. Also if you want more info on Ocho Tequilas and the opportunity to try these great brands then get in touch with the guys over at CASK Liquid Marketing.

DJ Tomas E

* Jackson Brown, ‘Baby’s Feeling Funny in the Morning’
* Bob Dylan, ‘Song for Woody’
* Toots and the Maytalls, ‘Love Gonna Walk Out On Me’
* Eric Clapton, ‘Please Be With Me’
* Los Lobos, ‘La Bamba’ - This is good dance music. Los Lobos are homies. They grew up near me and later lived in my hometown. We like to reminisce about life on Whittier Blvd in East LA.
* Shirelles, ‘Baby It’s You’
* Ray Charles, ‘What’d I Say?’
* Fleetwood Mac, ‘For You’
* Jeff Buckley, ‘Halleluja’ - Beautiful, haunting song by Leonard Cohen. Reminds me of opening Café Pacifico Sydney. After closing we’d turn on Jeff Buckley and sing along while lying on the restaurant floor, sipping Tequila. It was like singing in the shower in its acoustics.
* The Beatles, ‘Love Is All You Need’
* Mose Allison, ‘A Young Man ain’t Nothin in the World ‘til He’s Dead’
* Ray Davies and Jackson Brown, ‘Waterloo Sunset’
* Music From Hair, ‘What a Piece of Work is Man’
* Lyoll George, ‘Rosarita’
* Unknown, ‘El Rey’ - We had a unique Mexican waiter at Café Pacifico in Paris in 1984. He would sing a cappella as he served tables. He sang ‘El Rey’ in Spanish and would translate it in English as he went along. El Rey is a song representing the macho side of men.
* Neil Young, ‘I Believe in You’
* Judy Collins, ‘My Father’
* Jimi Hendrix, ‘Little Wing’
* Michel Legrand, music from ‘The Umbrellas of Cherbourg’
* Ramblin Jack Elliot, ‘Blue Eyes Cryin in the Rain’
* Lou Reed, ‘Pale Blue Eyes

Judge Julio

* Theme from Mission Impossible
* Vincente Fernandez, ‘Los Mandados’
* Roberto Carlos, ‘Amigo’
* Rare Earth, ‘Get Ready’
* The Champs, ‘Tequila’ - The national anthem of Tommy’s! Needless to say if it were not for Tequila, I would not be here today nor would I have had the opportunity to meet and enjoy many of your companies. Nick Strangeway and I never would have invented the tequila luge, nor would I have ever met Lily in Arandas. To quote Stefano Francavilla “God bless Tequila!” nothing else needs to be said.
* U2, ‘Pride (In the name of Love)’
* Luis Miguel, ‘El Viajero’
* Earth Wind and Fire, ‘Got to Get You Into My Life’
* Police, ‘Every Little Thing She Does Is Magic’ - To me everything Lily does is magic! Te amo, Mi Vida!
* General Public, ‘Tenderness’
* Carlos Baute y Martha Sanchez, ‘Colgando en Tus Manos’
* Astrud Gilberto, ‘Girl from Ipanema’
* Juanes Song, ‘Es Por Ti’
* Katrina and the Waves, ‘Walking on Sunshine’
* Carlos Santana, ‘Samba Pa Ti’
* Tony Bennett, ‘I Left my Heart in San Francisco’ - San Francisco is my town! I am one of its biggest promoters. I was born there and it will always be my home though I consider myself a citizen of the world. I love showing visitors how beautiful she is. Indeed Lily has my heart now, but whenever I am far from San Francisco, Tony Bennett brings me back home!
* Nat King Cole, ‘Fantastico’
* Prince, ‘Take Me With You’
* Luis Miguel, ‘Sabes Una Cosa’




www.barlifeuk.com

Ocho Tequila living the high life

In November Ocho Margaritas will be served at a reception at Paris City Hall.

This follows this year's Cinco de Mayo celebrations at The White House with Ocho Reposado. (Ya, that's right.....THE WHITE HOUSE!)